adriatic seaport Pure tourism, of course, but also one of the most enjoyable ways of getting around Downtown and Fish

^Delfina Nouvelle Italian adriatic seaport might best describe the cuisine here, and it is turned out to near perfection. The decor is fairly stark but not overbearing, and the inventive dishes rarely fail to surprise and delight. Maybe you ll choose a night when they re serving gnocchi with peas and morel mushrooms. d 3621 18th St between Dolores and Guerrero Map F5 (415) 552-4055 Closed L Dis. access $$

Curran Theater Built in 1922, this is one of the grandest theaters in the city and a Registered National Historic Landmark. The interior is a fantasy of gold and carved wood, complemented by a vast chandelier and murals. Shows tend toward long-running Broad way hits. d 445 Geary St Map P3 (415) 551-2000 www.shnsf.com

Pure tourism, of course, but also one of the most enjoyable ways of getting around Downtown and Fisherr rr man s Wharf. Pricey at $5 per ride, it becomes a bargain if you buy the CityPass ($54), which also gets you into many sights and is good for unlimited travel on the Muni transport system for a week from the time of first use. The Muni Passport can be used on the entire adriatic seaport Muni system including cable cars.

away in dark corners of anony mous bars, the establishments here have full picture windows right on the street and are busy at all hours. Castro Street is closed off every Hallowe en for the famous gay costume party that most agree is one of the city s best, second only perhaps to the Gay Pride Parade (see p75). d Map E5