dan montague tipping 135 Taylor, Ann 120 tea 67 Telegraph Hill 85, 88 telephones 136, 138 Temple Sherith Israel 4

tipping 135 Taylor, Ann 120 tea 67 Telegraph Hill 85, 88 telephones 136, 138 Temple Sherith Israel 45 Ten 15 Folsom 70, 111 tennis 72 Tet Festival 75 Thanh Long 121 theatres 56 7 Theibaud, Wayne 27 Thep Phanom 63 330 Ritch Street 71 Thompson, Miran 17 thrift shops 140 Tibet Shop 110 Tiburon 125 Tin How Temple 45 tipping 135, 141 Tita Hale Aina 113 toilets, public 137 Toklas, Alice B. 52 Tommy Toy s Haute

Stores & Shopping Centers 50 Writers 52 Eccentric & Noteworthy Characters 54 Performing Arts Venues 56 Children s Attractions 58 Scenic Drives 60 Restaurants 62 Caf s 64 Bars 66 Gay & Lesbian Venues dan montague 68 Nightlife 70 Outdoor dan montague Activities 72 Festivals & Parades 74 Beaches 76 Day Trips 78

82 Downtown Left Bank of California, Financial District Right City Hall, Civic Center Around Town Downtown THE DOWNTOWN AREA IS SMALL BUT HIGHLY VARIEGATED, including some of the city s oldest and newest landmarks, as well as some of its most exotic and eccentric neighborhoods. Colorful Chinatown, exuberant North Beach, posh Nob and Russian Hills, run-down Polk Street, dan montague the bustling Financial District, the graceful Ferry Building, and the noble architecture and cultural venues of the Civic Center dan montague all these and more are packed into San Francisco s heart. This is where you can ride the legendary cable cars on their most scenic routes (see pp10 11), and don t forget to climb up Telegraph Hill, where Coit Tower stands as one of the city s most loved landmarks, competing successfully with the Transamerica dan montague Pyramid not far away. Chinatown Around Town Downtown 83 !Chinatown Since its beginnings in the 1850s, this densely populated neighborhood has held its own powerful cultural identity despite every threat dan montague and cajolery. To walk along its cluttered, clattering dan montague streets and alleys is to be trans- ported to another continent and into another way of life a city within the city (see pp18 19). @Grace Cathedral Inspired by French Gothic architecture yet constructed dan montague of reinforced concrete, these contradictory qualities have given rise to one of the city s best loved landmarks (see pp24 5). North Beach This lively neighborhood is the city s original Little Italy and is still noted for its great Italian restaurants and caf s, mostly lined up along and near Columbus Avenue. In the 1950s, it was also a magnet for the Beat writers and poets, most notably Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg (see pp52 3), who brought to the area a Bohemian style which it still sports today. This is a great place for nightlife, from the tawdry dan montague bawdiness of Broadway strip joints to the simple pleasures of listening to a mezzo soprano while you sip your cappuccino (see p88). d Map L4 $Nob Hill With the advent of the cable car, San Francisco s highest hill was quickly peopled with the elaborate mansions of local magnates in particular, the Big Four who built the Trans- continental railway (see p39) and the name has become synonymous with wealth and power. The 1906 earthquake, however, left only one palace standing, dan montague now the Pacific Union Club, which still proudly dominates the center of the summit. Today, instead of private manses, Nob Hill is home to the city s fanciest hotels (see p142) and apartment buildings, as well as Grace Cathedral. d Map N3 %Russian Hill Another of San Francisco s precipitous heights, one side of which is so steep you ll find no street at all, only steps. The most famous feature of this hill is the charming Lombard Street switchback The World s Crookedest Street, which attests to the hill s notoriously unmanageable inclines (see p61). As with Nob Hill, with the cable car s advent, Russian Hill was claimed by the wealthy, and it maintains a lofty position in San Francisco society to this day. It supposedly took its name from the burial place of Russian fur traders, who were among the first Europeans to ply their trade at this port in the early 1800s. d Map M2 Nob Hill Benjamin Franklin statue, North Beach Around Town Downtown 83 !Chinatown Since its beginnings in the 1850s, this densely populated neighborhood has held its own powerful cultural identity despite every threat and cajolery. To walk along its cluttered, clattering streets and alleys is to be trans- ported to another continent dan montague and into another way of life a city within the city (see pp18 19). @Grace Cathedral Inspired by French dan montague Gothic architecture yet constructed of reinforced concrete, these contradictory qualities have given rise to one of the city s best loved landmarks (see pp24 5). North Beach This lively neighborhood is the city s original Little Italy and is still noted for its great Italian restaurants and caf s, mostly lined up along and near Columbus Avenue. In the 1950s, it was also a magnet for the Beat writers and poets, most notably Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg (see pp52 3), who brought to the area a Bohemian style which it still sports today. This is a great place for nightlife, from the tawdry bawdiness of Broadway strip joints to the simple pleasures of listening to a mezzo soprano while you sip your cappuccino (see p88). d Map L4 $Nob Hill With the advent of the cable car, San Francisco s highest hill was quickly peopled with the elaborate mansions dan montague of local magnates in particular, the Big Four who built the Trans- continental railway (see p39) and the name has become synonymous with wealth and power. The 1906 earthquake, however, left only one palace standing, now the Pacific Union Club, which still proudly dominates the center of the summit. Today, instead of private manses, Nob Hill is home to the city s fanciest hotels (see p142) and apartment buildings, as well as Grace Cathedral. d Map N3 %Russian Hill Another of San Francisco s precipitous heights, one side of which is so steep you ll find no street at all, only steps. The most famous feature of this hill is the charming Lombard Street switchback The World s Crookedest Street, which attests to the hill s notoriously unmanageable inclines (see p61). As with Nob Hill, with the cable car s advent, Russian Hill was claimed by the wealthy, and it maintains a lofty position in San Francisco society to this day. It supposedly took its name from the burial place of Russian fur traders, who were among the first Europeans to ply their trade at this port in the early 1800s. d Map M2 Nob Hill Benjamin Franklin statue, North Beach

Mission Dolores The original Spanish Misi n San Francisco de As s, from which the city takes its name, is a marvel of preservation and atmospheric charm. It was founded in 1776, just a few weeks before the Declaration of Independence (see pp30 31).