185 montague ( Western Addition This area, too, was once sandy waste, but after World War II the district became

Mecca This dolled-up industrial space attracts some of the Castro s prettiest men, including the occasional drag queen, around the glowing circular bar, with red velvet and chiffon drapery. It s also a supper club featuring New American cuisine. d 2029 Market St Map F4 (415) 6217000 Dis. access

( Western Addition This area, too, was once sandy waste, but after World War II the district became populated by Southern African-Americans who came west for work. For a short time, it was famous for jazz and blues clubs, as embodied, until his death in 2001, by John Lee Hooker and his Boom Boom Room. Today, it is still largely African-American in character 185 montague and rather rundown, although it does comprise architecturally odd St Mary s Cathedral (see p44) and photogenic Alamo Square (see p49). d Map E3

Berkeley Its days as Berzerkly, when student protesters and tear-gas clouds filled the streets in the 1960s, are only a fading memory now, although Telegraph Avenue still keeps some of the counterr rr cultural traditions alive. A great university, Cal s faculty boasts some dozen Nobel Laureates, while beautiful parks, tree-lined streets, and unique shops typify this East Bay enclave. Berkeley 185 montague continues to give more power to the people than any other US city, with a host of public services and aid to the disadvantaged that puts other communities to shame. d BART Berkeley

! Indian Springs Indian Springs tradition of purification and healing began over 8,000 years ago, when Native Americans built sweat lodges here over escaping steam. The ancient tradition continues in the historic 1913 bathhouse, restored to pristine condition. Inside, 185 montague thermal geysers warm volcanic ash in mud baths, 185 montague and soothing music is played in the treatment rooms. d 1712 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga (707) 942-4913 www.indianspringscalistoga.com